BOONE is the most obvious northern base for exploring the mountains; the town itself holds little of interest, though as home to the Appalachian State University it does have a life of its own. On campus, just off Hwy-321, the small Appalachian Cultural Museum (Tues-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; $2, free Tues) gives a good overview of the area, concentrating on suchmountain pastimes as music, storytelling, stock-car racing and making moonshine whiskey. Corny family entertainments dot US-321 - the three-mile steam-driven Tweetsie Railroad, which also has other attractions, is all that remains of a line across the mountains to Johnson City, Tennessee (summer-fall daily 9am-6pm; $22) - while pretty back roads hold offbeat settlements such as Valle Crucis on US-194, where the 1883 Mast General Store (summer Mon-Sat 7am-6.30pm, Sun 1-6pm; winter hours vary) is well worth a look around.

Local public transportation is dire, so you'll need a car to get here and around. The visitor center is downtown at 208 Howard St (tel 828/264-2225 or 1-800/852-9506, ). Bargain central accommodation can be had at the Boone Trail Motel , 275 E King St (tel 828/264-8839; $50-75). The High Country Inn , 1785 Hwy-105 (tel 828/262-0073 or 1-800/334-5605, ; $75-100), is a clean motel with a decent café and a sports bar, while the Cat Pause Inn , 2044 Broadstone Rd, Valle Crucis (tel 828/963-7297, ; $75-100), is great value. Back in Boone, the Lovill House Inn at 404 Old Bristol Rd (tel 704/264-4204 or 1-800/849-9466, ; $100-130) is a pleasant B&B . Most of the best places to eat or to have a beer are along King Street; the Caribbean Café , 489 W King St (tel 828/265-2233), serves good, spicy food including vegetarian dishes; and the gourmet pizzas, pasta and Mexican food at the Red Onion Café , 227 Harden St (tel 828/264-5470), are favorites among locals. For great vegetarian food and energizing smoothies try Angelica's , 506 W King St (tel 828/265-0809).